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Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 5:40 pm

Sawubona,

Many thanks - useful.

AMB

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:53 pm

HI all,

Many thanks for all your contributions. I have confirmed a stay at FDL and looking forward to the excellent tours of ISD and RD.

I will also be staying at the zulu Kraal near Eshowe and will report back upon my return.

Again many thanks

Carl

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:57 pm

Carl,

Did you get a tour guide?

AMB

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:50 pm

Carl,
If your itinerary isn't packed full yet, look up Graham (the owner) or Victor (his right hand man) at The George Hotel in Eshowe for an outstanding rural Zululand experience. They both seem to be welcome at every kraal or homestead for miles about and take people like yourself to weddings, coming of age ceremonies, bar mitzvahs etc. Be forewarned however that it's all pretty informal and what's offered depends on who's doing what when.
Try to get to Fort NONGQUAYI for a couple of hours also. It's got a little gem of a museum with a lot of AZW artifacts. And the Vukani Collection is worth a visit while you're nearby. Are you staying at Shakaland? If so, you've no excuse to miss the dancing! Be sure to bring a video camera if you can.

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:08 pm

...And The Martyr's Cross offers a memorable view and a good story to go with it, but it's not fun to find without a guide (as a matter of fact, don't even try it as you'll never find your way out of KwaZulu)!

Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 7:27 pm

Carl

Are you taking one of your boxes?

P.

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:21 pm

Peter,

You are joking of course......Perhaps it could go as hand luggage? Would it be over the weight limit even if I take 600 rounds out?

Sawubona,

I am hoping to stay at the first zulu kraal that you suggested ( I like the idea of arriving by Oxen!). I do hope I have the opportunity to witness some dancing there.

Where is Fort NONGQUAYI? is it close to Eshowe.

Andy

I met up with Rob at his lecture in Harrow School and will be exploring the sites with him and his colleagues during our stay at FDL. Many thanks for the tips regarding a guide but our time at FDL is limited to two days with a later overstay at the zulu kraal to take full advantage I am not sure if we can.

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:23 pm

Sawubona,

Sorry it was not suggested by yourself - too excited!
Carl

Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 2:56 am

Carl,
Fort Nongquayi is in Eshowe. It postdates the AZW by four years, but it houses the Zululand Historical Museum with many AZW artifacts. It's not particularly large and a couple or three hours invested would be worth your while. Of interest is Mpande's hand made wooden wheelchair and some interesting Isandlwana exhibits. And incidently, when at FDL beg to see some of the private collection of artifacts-- it's not to be believed! Jeez I envy you! Hamba kahle.

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 8:20 pm

Sawubona:

If I read you right, you said you were running around with "mace" around there. I don't get it. Why, is it necessary?

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 11:58 pm

No, the MACE wasn't necessary; but I felt better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it (I honestly would have "packed" iffen I could have). For our SA adventure we rented a car in Josie and drove 4500 miles over a period of almost a month. We only had a home made itinerary, but no guides or travel agent. A bit insane, I'll admit (as I'm not twenty or even fifty), but I'd do it again in a heartbeat!
I later discovered that MACE is frowned on by Her Majesty's Government and I was lucky not to get caught in London with it. And I don't know how SA feels about it. The only two times I kept it near at hand in SA was when stopping for directions in Bopthatswana (that place makes the LA Barrio look like a day care center) and the first time we were stopped crossing a provincial border by rather paramilitary looking fellows holding machine pistols (as though MACE would have been any use LOL). None of the guide books warned me about having your car searched for pig meat and having the soles of your boots sprayed with some kind of evil smelling substance! And said fellows barely spoke English to make matters worse.
Tough call on the MACE for tourists... I don't know how legal it is and its use could make a would be robber change his mind and begin considering other things, like mayhem or murder. I guess its a personal call.

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 11:10 am

What's "MACE"? I can't be the only one not to know what you're talking about. Sad

A weapon or deterrent of some sort, clearly. And "iffen" sounds even more mysterious, and is presumably more lethal?

They always say, when visiting SA or anywhere where crime is a problem, just be sensible and take normal precautions (whatever they might be!) and you should be all right. One then learns that "normal precautions" include keeping your car locked even when driving in it, and even - something which still baffles me! - not stopping. How does a driver not stop? Is there anyone who would consider these "normal" (or even comprehensible) habits or do I live in a dream world?

I realise one is supposed to adopt cautionary habits (although I didn't once feel even slightly uncomfortable or wary in SA on my only visit to date) but "normal precautions" are not normal for most other places, so I think specific actions should be advised and then memorised if they are to be effective, rather than simply recommend "normal precautions" which may not be at all normal to the visitor. To a trusting, friendly, outgoing visitor who likes to chat to everyone and who has never been robbed or assaulted, nor even remembers witnessing such - a pretty normal chap, in other words - "normal precautions" simply means not leaving your wallet sticking out of your pocket and trying not to forget to lock the car when you leave it.

Perhaps we shouldn't take our normal life for granted quite so much.

Peter

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 11:56 am

Quite right about MACE, Peter. It's a strong, non lethal irritant (previously derived from tear gas but now a more mild "pepper spray"). It comes in a pocket size canister and shoots a stream ten or fifteen feet which burns and temporarily blinds on contact. It seems to be available in England but a license is required whereas it can be purchased here in any large sporting goods store without any restriction other than age.
"Packing" is rather more lethal-- AKA "license to carry" a concealed weapon.
My advice is to look confident and self assured and drive around objects in the roads. We never had a problem, but we did come across cement blocks in the middle of the road. And I think it's best to ignore signs at the entrances of malls that say that management is not responsible for injury or death on the premises (Yikes!). keep windows rolled up and doors locked at traffic lights ("robots") as car jacking seems to be almost a vocation for some, particularly in Jo'berg, Durban, and other large cities. I don't know what we would have done if we had hit a cow or goat with the car, but the general consensus is that it's best to just keep driving and avoid a confrontation that could get nasty.

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 1:21 pm

One tip is do try and stick to the speed limits, this year we were going toward ladysmith, Jonesy driving hit the Mach 4 button, to say we only narrowly missed the huge coloured traffic cop as he ran into the road.

We got away with it because a) he couln't get to grips with Jonesys' driving licence, (he needed to be an expert in origami), and b)the paperwork probably wasn't worth it.

Our philosophy is if it looks suspicious it probably is, so avoid as Sawumbona says the typical tourist no-no's.

Always make sure you have fuel.. I can't tell you that the last 30 miles of the N3 on vapours is not the kind of thing I want to do again. You can go 70 miles without fuel, so if you can get it keep full. I like the filling stations in SA. It's like England of old where someone actually fills your car for you.

If you are at FDL, ask to go to the Crack across the river where the Utulwana crossed.

Finally.... please do not drink all the Gin... I will be there on the 18th jan., if it's all gone.. there be hell to pay!
Neil

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 5:20 pm

sawubona...

Well you know with the mace I'm afraid I'd probably be put in the klink and I'd certainly be playin' with fire if I attempted to get that stuff on a plane while going to SA! I don't think this guy would get far.. Wink

...

Anyway, I'm getting the feeling around here that a romp in Kwazulu may not be how I envision it.....you mean it's not a nice little walk say like in the Cotswolds or something? Do I need to take Carl's ammo box with me filled with the appropriate calibers?????... Wink

....PS I'm proud to say that I do have some "urbanity" and the knowledge that goes with it living near and in one of the largest cities in the world. But I do think now there needs to be some say "orientation" in order if I ever want to get by in SA and come back home.....pray tell me what I need to survive.... Wink

....